FETHIYE the new home to me

It's been a long while since I paused my travelling life and did settle down at least for a while. Fethiye was my last stop during that trip and I decided it was the best spot to stop. Actually that was the aim of my journey through Turkiye's west and south coast. To find the place where I'll settle down, where I'll call home, where I'll start building up my dream; opening a hostel!

The last 3 years passed with a little bit of struggle of life. The first trouble was earning money. The followers of my blogs will know that I travelled to South America for 10 months, arrived back to my hometown Izmit, stayed there for 2 or 3 months and started my coasts of Turkiye trip just after that. As you can calculate 😎, my money ran out and I needed to find out a new source for money as soon as possible. Otherwise I would be broke in a city where I know nobody, have no place to stay and not even mentioning about what I'll eat. At that point, my previous experience about food&beverage worked out well and I found a job as a waitress at one of the fanciest restaurants of Fethiye.
I was paid well but was working for long hours and being a waitress tires one's body specially legs, feet and ankles very very much. Still I worked around 1,5 year for this restaurant. During that time I met my husband to be, got married in 9 months. I know.. that sounds fast to me, too. But I love him💘 like I loved nobody.

We moved to our flat, decided to do something for living together, started working together for a friend in appearance. It took only 2 months for us to understand that the friend was not a friend indeed and had to quit. I know all these details may make you think like what the hell she is talking about but this was the stepping stone of what I am doing right now.

The next one year was though. I could only find a seasonal job for 4 months and couldn't find one at winter as Fethiye is a Mediterranean summer town and most of its economy depends on tourists and tourism. My husband's situation was worse than me. He couldn't work for nearly one year.

We were unemployed, broke, dissapointed but not hopeless. After that seasonal job as a waitress, again, I was definetly sure that it was time for a profession change and that being a waitress days are over.

As a short tip, if you are at a foreign place where you need to earn money and know the people around, being a waiter or a waitress is one of the best ways to do it in a short time. You meet with so many people from different range, learn so much about the place and earn money with tips in a very very short while. Keep this in mind!

Yes! Let me cut it short. After all this struggle, being a waitress, being an unemployed, getting married, getting frustrated I found a job ad online and did my best to grab it. Well, I did grab it.
I started working as a hostel manager. Unbelievable?? No. Nothing is impossible as long as you believe it.

The reason of writing all this story is to show you the road map of this blog. Of course there will be posts about places around Turkiye, Where To Go & What To Do's. But also it will be about hostels, people, feelings, experiences.. Shortly, about everything that I can share with you.

Hope you will enjoy the next etap of our trip ! 😉 

Denizli/ Laodikeia, PAMUKKALE, Hieropolis

Although probably most of you preferred to read this post because of Pamukkale, I decided to start with Laodikea as it was the main city and both Pamukkale (the coton white stone balcoons) and the town of Hieropolis were its summer holiday places.

the ruins of the temples region of Laodikeia

Laodikeia was one of the most important and famous cities of Anatolia at 1^st century BC. It was an important textile center famous with its sheep's wool which meant fashion for rich women and men at that century. The city was distroyed by a big earthquake at 60 AC. This was not the first one which hit Laodikeia but as the history says, the last one. One of the seven churchs of revelation, St. Paul's Church is also at Laodikeia which shows how important was cristianity at this ancient city during Roman times. Unfortunately the excavation of the church was still on so that I couldn't see it and I had to postpone visiting it to another time.

The first excavation of the ancient city Laodikeia was started at 1960's by a canadian professor, Jean des Gagniers and that time on, the excavations are still proceeding by turkish archeologists. It's told to me that it will take like 500 years to finish the excavation totaly and the archeologists think that Laodikea is even bigger than Ephesus. But the part of the city that has now come to light is enough to show the wealth and size of this ancient city to the visitors.

main street of Laodikeia

ruins of the public bath

the excavation area and the western gate of the city

 I should admit that before visiting Laodikeia, I wasn't expecting to see a magnificence of an ancient city which can easily compete with the attraction of Ephesus. This place will be my life long visiting area as I'll be able to find out new things, buildings, places, temples... etc at each of them.

The main thoroughfare of  Hieorpolis

Hieropolis is the ancient city which is also the entrance to the healing waters of Pamukkale's cotton like balconies. It is also the summer holiday place especially for the wealty people of Laodikeia. Its large necropolis contains more than 1200 graves and tombs which are the most fastinating examples of that century. It has a large amphitheather with a capacity of 15,000 people which remains standing, the temple of Apollon and hot spring pools. The museum contains large varioty of examples of decoration, money, sculptures and information about the city.

temple of Apollon

hot spring pools

king tombs

necropolis of Hieropolis

examples of column decoration

amphitheater

And the magnificent Pamukkale... The cotton balconies of healing spring water is now a World Heritage Site.

Pamukkale terraces

 Nowadays the valume of hot spring water is managed by the engineers because it causes some slipping accidents for the tourists who want to walk on them. This also causes some damage to the terraces. They start to get dry and turning black and you can see less water than you expect. But still, you can enjoy sitting in warm water and walking from terrace to terrace. It's not allowed to walk with shoes though. You have to be bare feet to enjoy this visit.

The reason of this cotton white terraceses is the minerals of carbonate remains of the hot spring water. Inspite of the soft look, the ground is pretty hard and easy to walk on.

You can reach to Pamukkale with a 20 minutes ride by minibus from Denizli.

the part started to turn black due to lack of water

hot spring water terrace

a general look to Pamukkale

hot spring water contains carbonat minerals

hundreds of tourist visits Pamukkale everyday

visitors enjoying the hot spring water

Day 42 to 53: Kuşadası, Dilek Peninsula, Didyma

Leaving Selçuk was like leaving a newly known friend for me. I saluted it with the promise in my heart to come back and went on.

My next stop was Kuşadası(BirdIsland). It is a well known touristic summer spot within us. During all my life I listened about Kuşadası from people who went or from people who have friends going or living there. I've seen its photographes many times. But still didn't know so much about it. Of course my two day visit won't be enough to know it but even only to se it with my own eyes was something for me.

Kuşadası

Kuşadası is a touristic Aegean town with a city life. It rises through the hills which are looking to Aegean Sea. Its most populated and touristic part is, of course, the sea line. It has a long sea line with pedestrian way and road ending at its symbol, The Pigeon Island.

The Pigeon Island

The every minute of the day crowded Old Bazaar location, the shopping centers and the bar's street are also on the sea line. For me the mostly unknown thing about Kuşadası was that it has a very busy cruise harbour. There is at least one cruise ship is coming everyday. But this time, it was more than a cruise ship..!

US Navy

If you follow the sea line, passing this city part, you come to The Pigeon Island. This Island has a castle on it. Actually, the island is the castle. It is now connected to sea line with a walking way. Unfortunatelly, the castle was under restoration for two years. But at least I was able to shoot a Kuşadası photo from the sea.

If you continue walking from the sea line, you will have good views of the bays and beaches next to Kuşadası. The famous one is Women's Sea.

The Women's Sea

Two days at Kuşadası was enough for me. I've learned lots of new things about it. Although it is not a place I would like to live but was nice to meet. So I left.

Dilek Peninsula National Park

Dilek Peninsula was my short stop before Didim. Dilek Peninsula and The Delta of Big Menderes are under protection and together form a national park. Only Dilek Peninsula is 27.675 hectares. It has three beaches at the nothern side which are famous with their cleanest Aegean water , a canyon to pass from nothern side to south, ruins of two antique cities. The peninsula is also home to 33 species of endemic, 13 species of rare endemic plants within total. More 250 species of birds are living at the area and 70 of them breed at the delta. It is formaly said that the peninsula is also home to anatolian leopard whose last member is known to be killed at Diyarbakır at 2013. Since then, there is no evidence to prove that they are still living.

from web

The national park is only available for daily visit. You are not allowed to camp in it. The gates are closing at 4pm at the afternoon and the ones that are inside are expected to leave soon. Because of this, it wasn't a satisfied visit for me as I didn't have a car and the peninsula is big. I only could visit the beach side as the minibus road was passing only from this part. But I really would like to come here again. Maybe with a bike! I stayed the night in Güzelçamlı which is the nearest accommodation posibility and continued to Didim the next day.

Didim was also a stopby as Kuşadası but things changed a little. My plan was visiting Didyma, The Apollon Temple, also visit old family firends and continue to Pamukkale. But the stay which I've planned for two nights became six nights. My hesitations about passing to Milas before Pamukkale, a light flue and posibility to swim maybe for the last time this year with the hospitality of old knowns created the lenght. It was good to strenghten old relationships.

Didyma

Didyma is where the Apollon Temple is. To see this temple was important for me. Because it was built as the twin of the Artemis Temple in Selçuk. You may remember its photos. It was imposible to imagine how it was as there weren't many left. But most of the Apollon Temple was still standing. It would definetely give me an idea about how was it feeling like to be at a temple of paganism.
The effect started while climbing the steps and passing between the huge colon legs. Only three of them are still stanging but the feet of the others are also there. So you tremble. The greatness of the building takes you at the beginning. I was ready to be a pagan at the first second:)

You climb the stairs, pass the colons and reach in the temple from two narrow sloped tunnels each side. The temple has no roof. It never had. They built it this was to strenghten the effect of its glory and to keep the connection with the sky. This temple was a prophecy temple and oracle priests were living here. This is why the temple has no roof. There is a well athe heart where there was a fountain at its age. Well, I was in front of a well at the heart of a paganist prophecy temple. I rolled a coin in it with a wish.

The Apollon Temple

Selcuk in a week... Ephesus, Artemis, Basilica of St. John, Pamucak Beach, Şirince Village...

Selçuk is a small and cutty town just 3km to Ephesus. It is also the accommodation and transfer point for the ones who would like to visit Ephesus, Artemision, St. John Church, house of Virgin Mary or Isa Bey Mosque.  It is a green and friendly town with lovely local small restaurants who serve delicious traditional dishes to cheap prices. People are friendly and wellcoming with big smiles on their faces. It is not only the town itself but probably because of containing that much important religious places, some spiritual things are going on over there or I'm dreaming.

First day, I reached to Selçuk early in the morning. The hostel I was planning to stay had no vacancy but offered another one with cheaper price. That was a good deal for me. 30TL a day with breakfast. Staying in a three bed room by myself. Locals told me that after september number of tourists start decreasing and see the bottom at january and february. So, this was my luck:) 

I couldn't wait more to see Ephesus as it was my first reason to visit here. I took a minibus directly to Ephesus from the town terminal. There are minibuses to Ephesus and from Ephesus to Selçuk in every 20 minutes and costs only 2,5TL(one way). 

Ephesus... At last, I was able to visit this important ancient Greek city of Ionia. My happiness and excitement was undescribable. The city wellcome me with its big ancient open air theater. Its capasity was 25.000 people and had been used not only for plays or concerts but also for the gladiatorial combats during later Roman times.

After sitting on the steps of this fascinating theather for a while I continued walking at the wide streets of the city. The Marble Street which led me to Celsus Library had a gift for me. A chamaleon was passing across the stree with slow steps spining its eyes 360degress and looking to people. I didn't even know we have them in Turkiye. After this lovely surprise, I followed the streeet through the Celsus Library.  This library is one of the most beautiful structures in Ephesus. I don't know how many times I've seen its pictures for all my life. Now, it was standing in front of me. So beautiful!

I was unable to leave the sight of the library. I made myself move just after deciding to come back later again at the end. So I followed the Curetes Street to see the temples of Domitian and Hadrian, fountains of Trajan and Pollio, gymnasiums, the odeon... Passing from Hadrian's gate, saluting to Memmius Monument, walking withing the rooms of ancient Scholastica baths, coming back to the Harbour Street after the last "long" look to the library. I know words are not enough to describe this ancient city. So I'll share some photos to give you an idea about it.

antique open-air teather

the chamaleon I was talking about

The Celsus Library

Curates Street

temple of Hadrian

Memmius Monument

the odeon

the basilica

Second day, after having my breakfast at the hostel, I went out firstly to visit the Temple of Artemis. Ephesus is a very important religious area. Its religious days start from paganism times. Temple of Artemis is one of the biggest temples of paganism that was built in Anatolia and is one of the World's Seven Wonders. Of course there is not much left from it but to be at a place, built long before cristianity or islam was an original experience. To think that once upon a time people were worshiping to nature, respecting and loving it made me think of nowadays and how easy to destroy it for human kind. Still I felt hope. If we had done this before probably we can do it again. Maybe I'm dreaming again... Anyway, starting the day with this temple was not a spontaneous choice. It was my first stop as it was the first to be.

ruins of Artemis Temple

Second stop was Isa Bey Mosque. This time it was not because Islam came to this land as the next religion after paganism but just because it was on my way to basilica of Saint John. Isa Bey Mosque is one of the most delicate examples of Seljukian architecture, situated below the basilica of St. John. The construction of the mosque dates back to 1375 AC.

from outside

inside

Third stop; basilica of Saint John... For the ones who don't know the story, it is generally accepted that St. John came to Ephesus together with the Virgin Mary somewhere between 37 and 48 AC. where they spent the rest of their lives. After his death approximately at the age of 100, he was buried to Ayasuluk Hill according to his last request. Three hundred years after the death of St. John, a small chapel was constructed over the grave in the 4th century. This basilica is the remains of the one which was built by the Roman Emperar Justinian and his wife Theodora. It was constructed in the 5th century AC, After 14th century, due to several earthquakes the basilica became unusable. The monumental tomb of St. John is still here and every year hosts the visits of thousands of cristians.

monumental tomb of St. John

the basilica

Last stop was the inner castle. the citadel... The citadel which is on the highest point of Ayasuluk Hill is like a crown over Selçuk. Behind its proud look its long past is hidden. The walls seen today belong to Seljukid-Ottoman periods. According to the tradition, St. John wrote his Gospel on this hill and prayed there.

the citadel

Third day was a chill out day. After two days of full history, religion and spirituality my soul needed a break and felt like sea air. The address was simple; Pamucak. It's the Aegean coast of Selçuk. A long beach with cool Aegean water. The decrease at tourist number was again a luck for me. It was so pieceful and silent. A little bit windy but worth to watch the sunset. 

Pamucak beach

sunset at Pamucak

Pamucak is only 8km to Selçuk town center. It is the last stop of the minibuses going to Ephesus. There are bungalows and camping facilities for the ones who would like to enjoy a sky full of stars at night but also there are lots of hotel accommodation posibilities.

Fourth day was the time to visit Şirince Village. This old rum village has a long history starting from 5th century. Before the Republic of Turkiye, it is said that Şirince was formed over 3000 houses which means over 10.000 people. Today only around 150 houses are still living. The main living of the village is tourism and raising olives, peaces and fig. The village is also famous with its homemade fruit wines.

Şirince Village

Dimitros Church and village street

Şirince Village

the cranberry wine was delicious

I fell in love with this small and cozy village. And by coincedence, a couchsurfing host found me and offered me a place to stay for a few days. This was an offer I couldn't resist and excepted immediately. At the fourth night of my journey to Selçuk, I stayed at Şirince, woke up the next day, went to Selçuk in the morning, pick up my backpack and came back to Şirince. But they didn't let me go to Selçuk without having a breakfast first. What a lovely one it was...!

traditional turkish breakfast

Fifth day started with this packing stuff and moving to Şirince, went on with a short siesta and lasted with a nice tracking to Kaiser Rock. It is a 3,3km route and is the shortest route around the village. There are some other and longer routes around the village containing stream crossing or church and monastery ruins.

Kaiser Rock near Şirince village

I spent three nights and four days at Şirince village which I enjoyed every second. But as every good thing, we came to the end. I said goodbye to Şirince and left till our next meeting.

Selçuk, Ephesus and Şirince are generally the places where people spend mostly one or two days. But definetely there are many things to do, places to visit in and around Selçuk. You should give it a chance and I guess, it won't let you down.

Answers to 6 questions about Turkiye...

5w1h of Turkiye...


WHAT IS TURKIYE?

Turkiye is the original name of Turkey. As a Turkish person, I prefer this version rather than the English one. Nearly 80 million people live here and as you may guess, most of them live in the big cities. 60% of the population is young; thus, we can actually call Turkiye a young country. Despite its young population, the history of the land is very old. From the beginning of human history, the land of Turkiye, also called Anatolia, has hosted many civilizations. Hittites, who signed the first pact after the war with The Egyptian Pharaoh Ramses II, the Lydians, who have one of the world's most ancient walking trails, called "The Lydian Road" with a distance of 509km, and the people of the ancient Greek city states, where the great philosophers of Greece like Socrates and Platon gave lectures, the Byzantines and Ottomans are the examples. It is also the intersection of the three major religions. The first seven churches of Revelation represent an important visiting route for the Christians.

This land of Turkiye is a mountainous peninsula surrounded by the Black Sea at the north, Aegean Sea at the west and Mediterranean Sea at the south. Its coordinates are 26-45degrees N and 36-42degrees E. It is contagious with Bulgaria at the northwest, Greece at the west, Georgia, Armenia, Azerbaijan at northeast, Iran at east, Syria and Iraq at southeast. It is located both in the Asian and European region. There is no difference in bureaucracy between these two lands and their citizens.

from web

Regardless of the nowadays politics, Turkiye is a secular country; the citizens being mostly Muslim, there are also people from the other religions. Family and family members are important and cared. Number of Turkish titles belonging to family members may show you how important this concept is. Anne, baba, kardeş, teyze, amca, hala, dayı, yenge, enişte, baldız, bacanak, kayınvalide, kayınpeder, anneanne, babaanne, dünür, görümce, kuzen, yeğen, dede, nine. :) ... some of these words may be translated to mother, father, sister, brother, aunt, uncle, cousin, nephew, grandmother and grandfather. 21 to 9! There is no English name for the rest.

wHOM TO VISIT?
Ok. There are various types of holidays and travelling options in Turkiye. Actually...for everybody. You can have a family with kids, partners, friends, couples or you may visit alone. Bikers, motorcyclists, backpackers, divers, climbers, honeymoon lovers... Just decide what kind of a visit it will be, and who you are coming with.

wHEN TO GO?
Due to its geographical and logistical conditions, Turkey enjoys a variety of climates, earning the country the nickname 'the land of four seasons'. Throughout the year, every month or season you can find a spot that is worth seeing and has a suitable climate. Summer time (June, July, and August) is generally hot with the temperature exceeding 30°C. Temperatures differ due to geographical locations and the east is the winner with over -20°C. Inner parts of the country also have cold winters with many days of minus degrees and snow. Climate of Mediterranean coast is more tropical than any other parts. The rest of the country enjoys a climate between these two.

wHERE TO GO?

from web

For the ones who are interested in history, limit is the sky:) I mean, everywhere on this land is full of history. You have to either draw lots or just follow the famous touristic destinations for history lovers.

Turkiye is a mountainous country as I have mentioned before. It has two big mountain chains. One is at the north; the other is at the south. Both mountain chains start from the back of the coast lines and form a line parallel to the seas. This formation makes them look like a wall while looking from the sea and are generally covered with old forests. They are preferable for tracking and camping. If you are both interested in nature and history, my suggestions will be Mountain Ida at the west and the Mountain Ararat at the east. By the way Mountain Ararat is the highest point of Turkiye (5.137m). It is a dead volcano, famous with the rumor on the Noah's Ark. There are also many other mountains beside these two mountain chains waiting for the climbers.

Aegean and Mediterranean seas offer their crystal blue water and their underwater treasures to their coasts. Water temperature is 23-24 degrees for the Aegean Sea, and 28-29 degrees for the Mediterranean Sea during the hottest months. If you love swimming, sailing, diving +history, you won't regret coming :)

I haven’t even mentioned Istanbul, Capadocia, Ephesus, Trabzon, Iskenderun, Van, Olympus and etc. yet.

wHY TO GO?
Well, it is up to you. As a citizen of this country, I want to explore and learn more about it. I’ve been travelling to the places I've mentioned above, discovering and interiorizing of myself and pursuing to find a place to build up my owned "water mill". Besides, it is the land I was delivered to. The motherland of me.. Through my life I've listened and learned mostly about this land and its people. Now I'm not sure how much of them are true. Travelling through Turkiye makes me find my own truth. Everybody has a different reason for travelling. What is yours?

hOW TO GO?
Turkiye is at the trans-section of the motorways connecting Europe and Asia. Busing may be an option from European countries mainly like Greece and Bulgaria. Although they are slow and not very new, train travel is also a possibility from the west to the east.
When it comes to flights, you can reach here from all around the world as Istanbul is a connecting stop for lots of long-way flights. Besides, there are cheap charter flight companies, through which you can find a good deal.
Now all of us know that Turkiye is surrounded by three seas. So I guess I don't need to mention the cruise lines coming to Istanbul, Izmir, Bodrum or Marmaris for the ones who would like to come by the sea.

Answers to 6 questions about Turkiye... Hope it will help you. Bye for now!